United States

Getting out of the States

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Distance: 1,549+ miles Planned Stops: Palm Springs, California Beaches, Redwood Forest Why this route?
The coastal route will be a nice alternative to the I-5 straight shot, and we get to see the Redwood Forest.
Going through Tuscon will allow us to drop into Mexico at the least dangerous main entry.

The next stop on our route is Mexico.

Mexico

Heading South through Mexico

 

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Distance: 2,109+ miles Planned Stops: Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan Why this route?
Coming in through Tuscon (border-town is Nogales) is currently the safest main entry to Mexico because of the drug activity in Juarez/El Paso and Tiajuana.  We'll get a full tank of gas just before leaving the States, and shred south to get out of the border area as quick as possible.  The Pacific Route is supposed to be quite a beautiful drive, and I'm really looking forward to it!

The next stop on our route is Guatemala.

Guatemala

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Distance: 239+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway (PAH)

The next stop on our route is El Salvador.

El Salvador

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Distance: 171+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway (PAH)

The next stop on our route is Honduras.

Honduras

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Distance: 83+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Just following the PAH, unfortunately the route through Honduras is brief.

The next stop on our route is Nicaragua.

Nicaragua

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Distance: 226+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway (PAH).

The next stop on our route is Costa Rica.

Costa Rica

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Distance: 343+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway (PAH)

The next stop on our route is Panama.

Panama

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Distance: 350+ Miles on land, another 350+ on a boat (5-day trip) Planned Stops: Colon or Portobelo

Why this route?
For social, political, and practicality reasons, there is no road between Panama and Colombia. The 'Darien Gap,' as it's called, stretches for about 60 miles between Central and South America and is inhabited by natives, guerillas, and dangerous terrain and circumstances. The best way to get between these two countries is by plane or by boat. Boating is much more of an experience, as we will get to tour the San Blas Islands - basically a paradise inhabited by natives. It usually takes about 5 days to make the trip from Colon or Portobelo, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia, plus any time we spend waiting for a boat to take us (some travelers have reported waiting weeks).

We're also considering taking a plane from Panama City to Quito, Ecuador, if the political situation in Columbia turns unfavorable.  We'll make that decision closer to our departure time.

The next stop on our route is Colombia.

Colombia

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Distance: 954+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Coming into port at the popular tourist city of Cartegena, we'll make our way south, through Medellin, over to Bogota, then south to Ecuador. According to the US Department of State travel advisory, the coastal town 35 miles west of Cali is still considered violent, so, unless conditions improve, we plan to avoid Cali by going straight from Bogota through Neiva to Popayan, rejoining the PAH there.

As with most countries, but especially in Colombia, we will be traveling by daylight only and will avoid rural areas as much as possible.

The next stop on our route is Ecuador.

Ecuador

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Distance: 515+ Miles Planned Stops: Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway.

The next stop on our route is Peru.

Peru

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Distance: 2000+ Miles Planned Stops: Machu Picchu (Incan Ruins north of Cuzco) Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway, except for a detour to see Machu Picchu.

The next stop on our route is Chile.

Chile

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Distance: 2097+ Miles Planned Stops: Santiago Why this route?
Following the Pan-American Highway, except for a short detour to visit Santiago. Then we'll cut across the Andes into Argentina before we get too far south.

The next stop on our route is Argentina.

Argentina

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Distance: 2020+ Miles to Tierra del Fuego, plus 2492+ Miles back up to Buenos Aires
Planned Stops: Ushuaia (the southern-most city in South America), Possibly Iguazu Falls (Corner of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brasil)

Why this route?
The PAH stops in Buenos Aires before it follows Argentina NR-3 down to Ushuaia, but we'll take a shortcut south, since we're coming back up to Buenos Aires to fly home.

The Contenders: Picking the right bike

The Dual Sport

We knew that we would need some capable machines for this trip. We will be riding 20-30 thousand miles through areas unfamiliar to us, carrying all the gear that we would need for three months. We would need a couple of reliable dual sport bikes. A dual sport is a bike set up for street and some off road use. They are very versatile and a number of manufacturers make some great models. Features we will look for include:

• Street and off road capabilities
• Load carrying ability
• Fuel efficiency
• Reliability
• Frequency, ease, and cost of maintenance
• Long distance comfort and a lot more...

 

New or Used?

We decided that we would prefer to buy and ride new bikes. We can preform simple maintenance and figure out how to take a part and fix things pretty well but we're not mechanics. New bikes have warranties, haven't been abused, and are generally all fuel injected (at least the ones we looked at). Also we want to ride the same bike so that parts and maintenance are the same.

Initial Contenders

It came down to the following bikes:

• Suzuki V-Strom 650 or 1000
• BMW R1200 GS or R1200 GS Adventure
• BMW F800 GS
• BMW F650 GS
• Buell Ulysses XB12XT
• KTM 990 Adventure
• Kawasaki KLR 650

 

Eliminations

Kawasaki KLR 650 The first to go was the KLR 650. This is a great bike but some drawbacks include the fact that it's a single cylinder engine, and a little on the small side. Tony is a big guy. They are a great value though and would be great for regional touring.

Buell Ulysses XB12XT The Buell Ulysses boasts some pretty cool features including 64 MPG out of a 103 HP 1200 cc engine. It also comes with factory cases (though small and not tough) and a 2 year warranty. It also has perimeter mounted brakes and an underslung muffler which keeps weight low. Our reasons for elimination: it is on the expensive side, five speed gear box, inaccessibility of parts/service in South America, least capable off road. This would be a good touring bike in the United States.

KTM 990 Adventure KTM has a committed following. A lot of guys love these bikes, and this bike has good reviews. However, neither of us have any experience with them and we had to cut this choice due to fears of unavailability of parts and service.

BMW F650GS Too small.

BMW F800GS This is a new BMW model and is set to be a pretty popular one. Very cool bike. However, it is set up a little bit more like a dirt bike than we would prefer. Also because it's a new model this year (2009) there is the concern that some bugs may need to be worked out before a trip like this. And parts and service aren't as available. There are more tried and trusted alternatives so we had to eliminate this one.

Suzuki V-Strom 1000 (DL 1000) The V-Strom is a great bike. It has a very reliable engine and has a great track record. Parts are everywhere and apparently anybody that knows an engine can work on them. Both the 650 and the 1000 are big enough (same size bike) to carry us and our gear and are capable enough off road. We eliminated the 1000 because it is more expensive and not as fuel efficient as the 650, and everybody we talked to / everything we read said you only need the 1000 if you're riding 2-up. Which we're NOT!

Down to the last two

It came down to the BMW R1200GS and the Suzuki V-Strom 650. Some pros and cons of both:

Suzuki V-Strom 650 ($6,999)

• Pro: Relative low cost
• Pro: More common parts
• Pro: Easier to find people who can work on the engine
• Pro: Range- A bigger gas tank than the standard 1200GS (5.8 gallons vs. 5.3 gallons) and better fuel efficiency (by about 10-15 MPG) means more miles between gas stops. However, the 1200GS Adventure does have an 8.7 gallon gas tank. Which is huge.
• Pro: Excellent record of reliability
• Con: Not rugged enough- These bikes will need more modifications and upgrades to make them trip-ready.

BMW R 1200 GS ($14,600 or $16,600 for the Adventure model)

• Pro: Tougher bikes. Less plastic, more like a huge dirt bike... but very comfortable (especially the Adventure model)
• Pro: Easier engine maintenance - Valves are easily accessible with the boxer-style engine
• Pro: The little things - Telelever front suspension, electronic immobilizer, etc.
• Pro: Less modification necessary - already packed with features we need. Most dealers order them with heated grips, trip computers, ABS (on/off with a switch!), etc.
• Pro: Switchable ABS. Turn anti-lock brakes on and off with a switch!
• Pro: Bigger engine - more hauling power
• Con: Price tag: $20,000 for a moderately loaded Adventure model
• Con: Weight: especially the Adventure model
• Con: Availability of parts and service

The Winner: Suzuki V-Strom 650

These are all great bikes. The last two are especially suitable for this trip. The pros and cons can be listed, argued, and debated for days (and they are all over the internet). We chose the V-Strom primarily because it is a very reliable bike, very capable, and a great value. Check out the links page under "The Trip" menu for links to great resources for research on these bikes.

Update: I (Nick) have since bought my V-Strom and I love it. I'm still in the process of getting it trip ready. I am 100% confident that we made the right choice.

Update: I (Tony) have also now purchased my V-Strom.  What an excellent machine!  Every time I get in the saddle, I go into adventure mode - looking for trails, back roads, puddles, and challenges.  I can't keep it clean for more than a day!  Short story about getting my bike - apparently the geniuses at Suzuki don't think the Black/Orange ABS model will sell in the States, but will in Canada.  I flew up to Vancouver, BC, where I had put a deposit down on the machine, and rode it home to Portland that night. 

The following is a table comparing the specifications of most of the bikes we considered. It is very interesting and makes picking one "best" bike very difficult... impossible.

	BMW R 1200 GS	BMW F 650 GS	BMW F 800 GS	Suzuki V-Strom 650 (DL 650)	KTM 990 Adventure	Buell Ulysses XB12XT
Engine
Type	Air/Oil Cooled, Boxer Twin	Liquid Cooled, Parallel Twin	Liquid Cooled, Parallel Twin	Liquid Cooled, 90 Deg. V-Twin	Liquid Cooled, 75 Deg. V-Twin	Air/Oil Cooled, 45 Deg. V-Twin
Displacement	1170 cc	798 cc	798 cc	645 cc	999 cc	1203 cc
Horsepower	105 hp @ 7500 RPM	71 hp @ 7000 RPM	85 hp @ 7500 RPM			103 hp @ 6800 RPM
Torque	85 lb/ft @ 5750 RPM	55 lb/ft @ 4500 RPM	62 lb/ft @ 5750 RPM			84 lb/ft @ 6000 RPM
Valves Per Cylinder	4	4	4	4		2
Fuel System	Fuel Injection	Fuel Injection	Fuel Injection	Fuel Injection	Fuel Injection	Fuel Injection
Drivetrain
Transmission	6 Speed	6 Speed	6 Speed	6 Speed	6 Speed	5 Speed
Clutch	180 mm dry, single plate with hydraulic actuation	Wet multi plate	Wet multi plate		Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically	Wet, multi-plate, compensated
Final Drive	Shaft	Chain	Chain	Chain		Belt
Dimensions
Overall Length	87.0"	89.7"	91.0"	90.2"		91.3"
Overall Width	36.6"	33.2"	34.2"	33.1"		39.6"
Overall Height				54.7"
Seat Height	33.5/34.3"	32.2"	33.5/34.6"	32.3"	33.86"	30.7"
Ground Clearance				6.5"	10.28"	5.94"
Wheel Base	59.3"	62.0"	62.1"	61.2"	61.81 ± 0.39"	53.9"
Dry Weight		377 lbs	392 lbs	479 lbs	438.7 lbs	465 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating	968 lbs	952 lbs	975 lbs			950 lbs
Load Capacity		575 lbs	583 lbs			414 lbs
Fuel Tank Capacity	5.3 US gal	4.2 US gal	4.2 US gal	5.8 US gal	5.81 US gal	4.4 US gal
Mileage City						51 MPG
Mileage Highway						64 MPG
Tires (Front)	110/80-19	110/80 x 19 tubeless	90/90-21	110/80 R19 M/C 59H, tubeless		Pirelli® Diablo® Strada 120/70ZR-17
Tires (Rear)	150/70-17	140/80 x 17 tubeless	150/70-17	150/70 R17 M/C 69H, tubeless		Pirelli® Diablo® Strada 180/55ZR-17
Chassis
Brakes (Front)	Twin disc, 12.0"	Single disc, 11.8"	Twin disc, 11.8"	Twin disc	Twin disc, 11.81"	Single disc, 375 mm, perimeter mounted
Brakes (Rear)	Single disc, 10.4"	Single disc, 10.4"	Single disc, 10.4"	Single disc	Single disc, 9.45"	Single disc, 240 mm
Suspention Travel (Front)	7.5"	7.1"	9.0"		8.27"	4.92"
Suspension Travel (Rear)	7.9"	6.7"	8.5"		8.27"	4.92"
Suspention Type (Front)	BMW Telelever	43 mm telescopic fork	45mm USD Fork	Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped	WP USD Ø 48 mm (1.89")
Suspension Type (Rear)	BMW Paralever	Double sided aluminum swingarm	Double sided aluminum swingarm	Link type, coil spring, oil damped	WP mono shock PDS with hydr. spring preload
Fuel Requirements
Warranty				12 Months		24 Months Unlimited Mileage

The Bike: Suzuki V-Strom 650 (DL 650)

In the article "The Contenders" we discussed why we picked the V-Strom 650. It's reliable, relatively inexpensive, parts are available, easy to service, and it's more than capable. Or we'll make it capable! The V-Strom 650 isn't 100% ready for this adventure until we deck it out. This section is full of the modifications and equipment upgrades necessary to make the journey.

Camping Gear

We plan on staying in hostels as much as possible, but when we need to camp, we'll be prepared. This list is 'per person' gear.

• Tent (as waterproof as possible... we will be in the RAIN forest!)
• Self-inflating matress
• Sleeping bag
• Silk sleeping bag liners (for ease of cleaning)
• Inflatable pillow
• Pillow case
• Extra tent poles
• Knife, fork, and spoon
• Water Filter
• Cup
• Beef Jerky
• Peanuts
• Tuna

Clothing

There isn't a lot of room for a ton of clothes, so we'll have to make it count by taking only the essentials.

• 3 T-Shirts (synthetic, not cotton, for easier washing)
• 1 Collared Shirt (in case we need to look nice)
• 1 Pair of Convertible Pants (the kind that zip off at the knee to also be shorts)
• 2 Pairs of Normal Socks
• 3 Pairs of Boxers
• 1 Pair of Swim Shorts
• 1 Bandanna
• 1 Pair of Rubber Sandals
• 1 Pair of walking/cross country shoes
• Hat
• Fleece Sweatshirt (light weight, compact, and warm)

Electronics

We've started a list of the equipment we know we need, but in some cases, we haven't chosen specific brands or models yet. If you can help us decide, please let us know by leaving a comment below.

• Laptop Computer- HP Mini 1000 (Starts at $359)
• Digital Camera (and USB Cable)
• Camera Tripod
• Handlebar-mounted GPS (Garmin Zumo 450)
• Helmet Audio System (Scala rider Q2)
• Two-Way Radio (Scala rider Q2)
• iPod and radio transmitter (iTrip maybe). The Scala rider system has FM radio so we can listen to our iPods in our helmets.
• Helmet-Mounted Headset and Speakers (Scala rider Q2)
• Satellite Phone with Internet Capabilities and Skype phone
• Power Outlet Converter
• Rechargeable AA Batteries
• Battery Charger
• USB solid state hard drive (or two or three)

Motorcycle Riding Gear

• Full-body riding suit - We've heard that Olympia makes suits that are almost as good for a third of the price of coveted BMW suits. After trying on jackets from both manufacturer, we found more advantages going with the Olympia brand. We'll probably end up with the waterproof all-season-touring jacket for staying dry and safe. For the lower half, the Airglide pants provide the same all-weather protection as the jacket.
• As an alternative to the full body riding suit, we are considering a mesh armored shirt, which we can then layer with any combination of a heated vest, fleece, or rain slick as weather/temperature requires.  Coupled with some well-ventilated armored pants (and a waterproof shell to throw over it when required), we should be well prepared for the wide range of climates and weather conditions.
• Riding Boots (Nick picked the BMW Santiago's and Tony is rolling with the BMW AllRound's)
• Helmet - From a function, convenience, and safety perspective, we've decided that a full-face, flip-up helmet is the way to go.  We're planning on riding with the Shoei Multitec.  Reputable brand, good safety technology, lightweight, and, of course, flip-up.
• Summer Gloves
• Winter Gloves
• Riding Socks (tall and whisking)
• Lower back brace / Kidney Belt (for keeping posture on long rides)
• Half-Gallon Wearable Water Reservoir (CamelBak)
• Clear and Smoked Visors
• Visor Hip Bag (Storing the visor that's not in use)

Spare Parts

We expect to have quite a bit of maintenance to do, and we're gleaning our list from those who have done this before.

• Oil Filter(s)
• Spark plugs
• Master Links for the Chain
• Throttle and Clutch Cables (pre-wired in place with capped ends)
• Various Bulbs
• Repair Manual
• Common Nuts and Bolts
• 18" tire tube. The V-Strom has tubeless tires but if we have a bad flat that can't be fixed we can put the 18" tube inside the 17" rear or 19" front tubeless tires.
• Tire iron
• Flat fix kit

Toiletries

Don't forget your toothbrush!

• Toothbrush/toothpaste
• Body Wash Sheets - These are pretty cool.  They come in packs of 50, and, when you add water, they dissolve into a lather.  Makes for compact storage, and you just take a couple with you to shower, no worries about bottles.  You can see more details at Packinglight.net
• Shampoo Sheets - Same as above.
• Hand Soap Sheets - Same as above.
• Laundry Detergent Sheets - Same as above.
• Mesh Shower Sponge
• Razor/Hair Trimmer
• Towel
• Deodorant
• Wet Wipes
• Hand Sanitizer
• Tissues (tiny packs)
• Insect Repellent (and lots of it - with Deet)
• Sunscreen
• Contact Solution/Case/Spares
• Cologne/Body Spray (if there's no time for a bath)
• Multi-Vitamin
• Baby Wipes

Tools/Gear

We're taking some common tools to work on the bikes while on the road. If you have additional thoughts and suggestions about this topic, leave a comment below.

Bike Tools:
• 3/8" Ratchet
• Sockets to match the bolt sizes on the motorcycle
• Wrench set to match bolt sizes on the motorcycle
• Hex-head (Allen) Wrench set to match the head sizes on the bike
• Flat and Phillips head screwdrivers
• Cable Ties
• Leatherman
• Adjustable Pliers
• Mini Hacksaw and spare blades
• Small File

Misc. Gear:
• ASP (Collapsible club for self-defense)
• Mace - Disguised as chain lube or something so it won't get confiscated
• Knife
• Flashlight
• Head torch
• Compass
• 100 feet of nylon rope
• Large tarp
• Heavy-duty cable and lock
• Pen/Pencil and Paper

Carnet

"The Carnet guarantees to a foreign government that the vehicle it identifies, having been granted temporary importation status, will be removed from the country within the time limit imposed by the respective jurisdiction or if not, that the country will be paid all duties and taxes that would be required to permanently import the vehicle. Using the Carnet is an alternative to leaving cash security deposits with foreign governments. It allows free movement and unencumbered access between foreign countries. Use of the Carnet is restricted to the countries listed on the back cover. It is valid for one year from date of issue." - Canadian Automobile Association.

Fortunately, no governments in the Americas require a Carnet, so we're off the hook on this expensive piece of paperwork.

Health Insurance

We're looking into global Life-Flight type services and insurance at the moment.  There are a few good options, but we'll keep you posted on the service best suited for our ride.

International Driving Permit

The International Driving Permit is required for 'operation of a motor vehicle' in most of the countries we'll be going through. It's valid for one year after the issue date and costs $15 from AAA.

Motorcycle Insurance

Motorcycle Insurance...

Vaccinations

Having no better place to put this section, the inoculations we'll need are listed below.

Update: Tony got his shots!

Having already been shot with Hep A and B 5 years ago, my doctor (Dr. Douglas) recommended Yellow Fever and Tetanus-Diphtheria-Pertussis (TDaP), which I was promptly injected with. 

I was prescribed Doxy cycline for Malaria and told to try it for a week during the summer to see if I have an allergic reaction or breakout.  I need to start taking one pill/day 2 days before entering an affected area and continuing  28 days after I leave the affected area.

He also gave me a prescription for 4 months worth of Typhoid tablets, as well as 20 Cipro pills for extreme cases of Montezuma's Revenge (recommened Immodium AD for mild cases).

He also gave me an interesting idea for Mosquito Repellent - Dilute Deet 50% with Eucalyptis oil to help it apply easier and smell better.

Recommended:

• Malaria (2 weeks before travel)
• Polio
• Typhoid (10 days before travel)
• Hepatitis A (2 weeks before travel)
• Tetanus-Diphtheria (3 months before travel)
• Yellow fever (10 days before travel)

Sometimes Recommended
• Tuberculosis (3 months before travel)
• Rabies (1 month before travel)

Visas

Brasil requires a visa for US citizens, granting a 90-day tourist stay beginning no later than 90 days after it's issued.

Paraguay requires a visa, but is not currently in our route plan, so we're not worried about it at this point.